Joshua Lawrence Breslin comment:
In the last sketch which
detailed Peter Paul (and my) experience travelling, hitch-hike travelling as
was our wont (and mainly our necessity if we wanted to get places with low or
no dough) down to Washington D. C. for the ill-fated May Day 1971 action
against the Vietnam War mention was made of later addressing the whole ethos of
hitch-hiking. In short, a suitable homage to the long haul truckers who, for
whatever reason, were the best guys to ride the road with. Here is a good place
to put one such experience although it, strictly speaking, breaks the
chronology since it takes place in 1969.
And strictly speaking it goes
well beyond the romance of the road to another one of Peter Paul’s
moon-begotten romances but on reflection the two really do seem to mesh
together in that anything is possible time. Thus it is a good representation of
the highs and lows of one experience. I have, by the way, a basketful of my own
hitch-hike road stories that I could tell, including that fateful trip cross-country
from Olde Saco to San Francisco in the summer of love, 1967, where I met Peter
Paul but that for another book of sketches.
********The 1960s asphalt-driven, white-lined, hitchhike road, the quest for the blue-pink great American West night, the eternal midnight creep of over-weight trucks with their company-seeking, benny-high, overwrought teamster drivers, and the steam-driven, onion-filled meatloaf-milk-heavy mashed potatoes-and limpid carrots daily special diner truck stop are all meshed together. You could say that there was no hitchhike road, and no blue-pink dreams, if the old-fashioned caboose (sometimes literally) diner was not part of the mix that glued things together out on that lonely highway.
No, I do not speak of the
then creeping family-friendly one-size-fits-all but still steamed meats-milky
starches-sogged vegetable franchise interstate restaurants that now dot the
roads from here to ‘Frisco but back road, back hitchhike road if you were
smart, back old time route one, or sixty-six or twenty road where you had a
chance for pushing distance and for feeling America in the raw. Hey, I have a
million diner stories, diners with and without truck stops, diners famous and
obscene, diners of every shape and composition to tell about. Or rather I have
about three basic diner stories with a million steamed meat loaf-mashed
taters-carrots (okay, maybe string beans, steamed, for a change-up)-bread
pudding for dessert variations. I want to tell you one, one involving a young
woman, and involving the great American night that drives these scenes. The
other variations can wait their turns for some other time.
Car-less, and with no hope
for any car any time soon, but with enough pent-up energy and anger to build a
skyscraper single-handedly, I set out for the early May open roads, thumb in
good working order, bedroll on one shoulder, life’s worldly goods in a knapsack
on the other. It was that simple in those days. Today, sadly, it would take my
rental of a major U-Haul truck, for starters. As always in those days as well,
and some of you may know the spot if you have ever been in Boston (or, better,
Cambridge) there was (and is) an old abandoned railroad yard that was turned
into a truck depot near the entrance to the Massachusetts Turnpike where most
of the truckers, the big diesel-fuelled ones, the doubled-wheeled, eight and
sixteen-wheeled ones, picked up or unloaded their goods for further transport.
That was the place to check first if you were heading west on the off chance
that some mad man trucker was looking for company on that white-lined,
hard-scrabble road, and did not mind bedraggled, bearded, long-haired, hippie
boy company, at that.
As luck would have it I caught a guy who heading out to Chicago with a load of widgets (or whatever, even these guys didn’t know, or want to know, what was on the manifest half the time, especially if they were running “heavy”).
And why, by the way, although
it is not germane to the story, was I heading out on that old California road.
Why all that pent-up energy and skyscraper-building anger. Well, the cover
story was so that I can get my head straight but you know the real reason, and
this is for your eyes only, I had just broken up, for the umpteenth time, with
a women who drove me to distraction, sometimes pleasantly but on that occasion
fitfully, who I could not, and did not, so I thought, want to get out of my
system, but had to put myself a little distance away from. You know that story,
boys and girls, in your own lives so I do not have to spend much time on the
details here. Besides, if you really want to read that kind of story the
romance novel section of any library or the DVD film section, for that matter,
can tell the story with more heart-throbbing panache that you could find here.
Now there were a million and
one reasons that long-haul drivers back then would take hitchhikers on board,
even hippies who represented most of what they hated about what was happening
in, and to, their America in those days (in the days before the trucking
companies, and the insurance companies, squashed that traveler pick-up idea and
left the truckers to their own solitary devises). Some maybe were perverse but
usually it was just for sheer, human companionship, another voice, or more
usually someone to vent to at seventy or seventy-five miles an hour, especially
at night when those straight white lines started to get raggedy looking.
This guy, this big-chested,
brawny, beef-eating teamster guy, Denver Slim by name (really, I heard other
truckers call him that at truck stops when they gave each other the nod,
although as described he was neither slim nor, as he told me, from Denver), was
no different except the reason, at least the reason that he gave me, was that I
reminded him of his goddam son (I am being polite here) whom he loved/hated.
Loved, because that is what a father was expected to feel toward kin, son kin
especially and hated because he was showing signs or rebellion (read: becoming
a hippie). I, needless to say, was a little queasy and sat close to the door
handle for a while until I realized that it was more about love than hate. Old
Denver Slim just didn’t get what was happening to his world, especially the
part, the huge part, that he had no control over.
Hey, I had countless
hitchhike rides in all kinds of vehicles, from the Denver Slim big wheels to
Volkswagen bugs (look that up) but the common thread was that there were some
interesting (if disturbing and hopeless) stories out there. Let me fill you in
on Denver Slim’s story both because it helps explain what is coming up in my
own quest and the hard, hard fact that there was a malaise, a palpable malaise,
in the land and his story was prima facie evidence for that notion. Denver Slim
had gone, like a million other members of my parent’s generation, through his
childhood in the Great Depression (Chicago) and did his military in the throes
of World War II (Corporal, U.S. Army, European Theater, and proud of it). After
the war he started driving trucks, finally landing unionized teamster jobs as
an over-the-road long haul driver based in Chicago. As was not unusual then,
and maybe not now either, he married a local woman he knew from the old
neighborhood, had several children, moved out of Chicago proper to a suburban
plot house (“little boxes”, from the description he gave) and bought into the
mortgaged, green-grassed lawn, weekly mowed (when he was not on the road),
television-watching, neighbor-averting (except for the kids when young) routine
that was a blueprint for America 1950s life in the lower-middle classes.
Here is where Slim’s story
gets tricky though, and interesting. Of course being on the road, being
mortgaged up to the neck on the road, he was never home enough to make the word
family stick. He, as he admitted, when talking about his son Jamie, the
rebellious son (read: becoming a hippie son), didn’t really know the kids (the
other three were daughters whom he , as he said, wouldn’t have known anyway
past the age of ten or so the way things work in girl world). But here is the
kicker, the kicker for me back then although I get it better now, much better.
The wife, Ruth, the ever-loving wife, had along the way taken a boyfriend and,
off and on, lived with that boyfriend. Slim went crazy at first about it but
somehow got through it and accepted that situation. Oh, you thought that was
the kicker. No, that was just the prelude to the kicker. Here it is. Denver
Slim, old proud soldier-warrior, old mortgaged to the neck teamster, old work
and slave on the road for the kids that he doesn’t know has a girlfriend, and
had said girlfriend way before his wife took her lover. A beautiful family
values story out of the age of Ozzie and Harriet, right?
But this is the real kicker
for your harried hippie listener, old salt of the earth Denver Slim in relating
his life story gets a little bit lovesick for his honey (no, not the wife, the
girlfriend, silly) who lived in Steubenville, Ohio. And that, my friends, is
where we are heading as we are making tracks to Youngstown on Interstate 70 and
so instead of getting a ride through to Chicago (a place where I knew how to
catch a ride west, no problem, almost like out of Boston) I am to be left off,
and good luck, at the diner truck stop just off Route 7 outside of
Steubenville, Ohio. Right near the Ohio River, at the eastern end that I was
not familiar with. Christ, I never even heard of the place before, never mind
trying to get a ride out of there, getting out of there at night as it looked
like was going to happen by the time we got to the stop. Well, such is the
road, the hitchhike road, and I hope old Slim had a good time with his honey,
maybe, maybe I hope he did that is.
Slim must have had it bad,
love bug-bitten bad, because he no sooner left me off at the diner than he then
barrel-assed (nice term, right?) that big rig back, that big sixteen wheeler,
onto the love-night road and to his own dream sleep. So here I am doing graduate-level
diner study by my lonesome. Look, I am no stranger, by this time in my
wanderings, to the diners, trucks stops, cafes, and hash houses of this
continent. From the look of this one (and one judged these things by the number
of big rigs idling nearby) it was something of a Buckeye institution, maybe not
like the football team or various legendary football coaches but busy (yah, see
I know a little about Ohio, although not much outside the bigger cities and
campus towns).
As I go inside through the
glass-plated double doors I can practically inhale the steam from the
vegetables, the dank, faded glory of the taters, and the inevitable onion smell
than can only mean meat loaf. Hey, this is what passes for home-cooking on the
road. And be glad of it, friend. As a single I would not be so uncool as to
take a booth, although at this time of day there are some empties here, but
rather hop right up on that old stool at the Formica-top red counter replete
with individual paper mat and dinner setting, spoons, folks, knives, various
condiments and plastic-entombed menu that every self-respecting diner has for
those caught by their lonesome. Their sincere, if futile, attempt at home-away
from hominess. It’s not like this is a date-taking place (or at least I hope
nobody thinks along those lines, but you never know, maybe people celebrate
their anniversaries here) but it is okay out here abandoned in the neon-lighted
wilderness of a back road truck stop.
Okay, at long last here is
the part that you have been waiting for, the girl in the story part. Well, wait
a minute, let me hold forth on waitresses because that is important to the girl
part (and it was almost always waitresses in those days, or in a pinch, the
owner/short order cook) who served them off the arm. In college towns and big
cities, waitresses were (and are) just doing that job to mark time while going
to college or some other thing but in the hash houses, the road side diners,
the hole-in-the-wall faded restaurants of this continent it was (is) almost
universally true that in this type of establishment this was an upwardly-mobile
career move (or, maybe, just a lateral move). You have all seen and heard about
the typical career waitress- surly, short-tempered, steam-pressed uniform,
steamed by the proximity to the food trays that is, hardly has time to take
your order because that party of six in the booths is waiting on dessert (and
her big tip for this evening, she hopes, although if she thought about it the
hard facts should have told her that old lonesome single male trucker was the
best tipper). There is a smidgen of truth in those old hoary stories about
waitresses but there is also some very hard-pressed, ill-fated bad luck thrown
in as well. They all had stories to tell, at least the ones who didn’t scurry
away like rats from “hippies.”
Okay, okay I can now tell you
about angelic Angelica. That name, the smell of that name, the swirl around the
tongue speaking that name, the touch of that name, still evokes strong memories
even after all this time. But enough of nostalgia. Let’s get down to cases.
First of all she was young, very young for a truck stop diner waitress so at
first I thought that she was a career waitress-in-training or that there was a
college nearby that I might not have heard of. I will describe her virtues in a
second but let me tell you right off that the minute I sat down, and although
there were several others at the counter who had come in before me, she came
right over to my stool and asked if I wanted coffee. Well, kind of sleepy that
I was at the time, I said yes and she went right off, got it, and came right
back. And then, while the others at the counter were cooling their heels, she
took my order, and as she moved away to put that order in (No, I do not
remember what it was but, probably, since I was counting pennies, a burger and
fries, meat loaf and other such high-end cuisine was saved for serious hungers)
she slightly turned to give me another look and a sly smile.
In those days I was
susceptible, very susceptible, to that winsome sly smile that some women know
exactly how to throw (hell, I am still a sucker for that one, and don’t tell me
you aren’t, or couldn’t be, too, male or female, it works both ways on this
one). That sly smile and her, well, looks. Forget that endless physical
description stuff about soft auburn hair, full ruby-red lips, bright, fresh,
naïve blue eyes, nicely-shaped hips and well-formed legs. Very good legs. Okay,
forget all that. I will describe her looks in “on the road” terms because when
you were on the road and trying to get across the country the rules, the rules
of the road, were a little different. Your take on life and your usually
transient relationships with passing strangers, male or female, got a little
twisted. Not necessarily in a bad way, but twisted.
There were different
protocols for different situations when you were hitchhiking. A lone male
hitching was usually not a bad proposition, especially if you stayed close to
the highways and knew the truck stops, and appeared to be drug free, or at
least that you were not in the throes of a terminal drug experience while
trying to hitch a ride. This Hunter Thompson Fear and Loathing In Las Vegas
drug stuff is good road fiction, but fiction nevertheless, if you were trying
to get from point A to point B before your old age set in. The same with goofy
Dennis Hooper Easy Rider stuff. Good cinema, bad, real bad road stuff.
The main problem then, and probably would be today as well, is single
middle-age guys, maybe desperate for a little company, picking you up with the
idea of making advances. I don’t know about anybody else, as least I never
heard anybody talk much about it then, but a simple "no" usually was
enough to stop that(and not infrequently got you dumped in some odd spot between
exits to thumb down some flying-by traffic). It’s only later, in the early
1970s when I wasn’t on the road so much that things started to get hairy, and
the talk turned to weirdness, serious weirdness, out on the white-lined lanes.
In the late 1960s a pair of
males was not a bad combination either. Not so much for getting rides from
truckers who usually did not have room for two (or, if so, it was uncomfortable
as hell) but for the plethora of Volkswagen vans, converted school buses,
campers, and pick-up trucks that were out there on the blue-pink seeking road.
There were times on the Pacific Coast Highway out in California that you barely
got your thumb out and some vehicle stopped, especially if you looked like you
were part of “youth nation.” Two more guys in back, sure thing, no problem.
Those were good days to travel the roads, and another time I will tell you
about some of those experiences but right now I have to get back to describe
Angelica, or her road-worthy attributes anyway.
The optimal road set-up
though, the one that got you rides the fastest, usually was to be paired up
with a woman, truth be told, preferable a good-looking young woman. Ya, it’s
not good form today, it’s certainly not politically correct or socially useful
today to work from this premise, but back then the idea was that a guy and girl
were safe from the driver’s perspective. And it was almost always guys,
truckers or loners, or an occasional man and woman, who picked you up. Not
single women drivers, young or old. For my perspective, the hitcher’s
perspective, a good-looking woman, with good legs, made the road easier. And
other delights, of course.
And it did no harm to have
the woman act as an upfront side-of-the-road decoy for that same reason. Maybe
not in the desert tumbleweed badlands of Arizona or Nevada where the hot sun,
or dust, got you a ride from people who knew that area and knew they had to
stop as a matter of your survival, and who knows their own sense of survival as
well, but between exits on Interstate 80, let’s say, it helped, hell it helped
a lot. Maybe not old Denver Slim, high on benny and moaning and groaning for
his honey (the girlfriend not the wife remember) in dark night, white-lined
blur but a guy like me would have made those lonesome highway brakes squeal to
high heaven, and gladly. Angelica, at first glance, would certainly make the
road easier, although this little detour is strictly for descriptive purposes
in this part of the story. Put a simpler way, she was fetching.
But all of that is music for the future. Needless to say making any kind of move toward continuing the conversation with Angelica required a certain diligence and patience in the middle of diner traffic. As it turned out the diligence was only partially necessary because she was more than willing to talk to me while taking orders all around us. Her story was that she had been enrolled in some local Podunk (her term) business school (Muncie Business College for Women, or something like that) in her hometown of Muncie, Indiana but now wanted to be a medical technician of some sort (radiologist is what it was, I think). But most of all she wanted to get away from home (be still my heart) and had wound up in Steubenville as some kind of way station between dreams. Yes, I can hear the snickers now about some small-town girl seeing the bright lights of Steubenville and going all a-flutter. Stop it. Stop it right now.
In the dark of that night I
was obviously not in any particular rush to leave, and as the dinner crowd
thinned out we talked some more, as she filled my coffee cup repeatedly so that
I could look like I was a "real" paying customer. To say this gal was
innocent in some ways would be an understatement, and on the face of it a
Midwest naïve and an East Coast hippie just would not make sense, no sense at
all. But so would the fact, the hard fact that I would be in Steubenville, Ohio
as part of a search for the great American night. Let’s just call it the times,
and leave it at that.
And the times here included a
very convenient fact. Angelica, as occurred more often than one would have
thought out in those highway stops, as part of her job resided in one of the
diner owner's motel cabins that dotted the outside ring of the truck stop.
These single units provided cheap lodging for someone new, or transient, in
town and were basically provided to the help so the newer help could be readily
available on call when the inevitable call came in from the drunken cook, the
moving-on dishwasher, or when one of the love-smitten senior career waitresses
called in “sick”. Mainly though these cabins were for over-weary
transcontinental truckers to grab a little sleep before pushing on. Thus they
weren’t, at least these weren’t, your basic family-friendly digs that made you
feel that you were in some room at home but rather that you were on that
hell-bent, weary road, and this is the best you could do to rest those weary
bones.
Well, yes we got around to
leaving after her shift was over about 11:00 PM and did the ceremonial dancing
around that generations, no, generations of generations, have pursued in the
“courting ritual” on that initial question of whether, and when, a smitten pair
get together for the night. If they do. But this time there is no story if they
don’t, right?
To spare any more
suspense dear Angelica asked me into her digs. Just to talk, okay, and frankly
I was so tired from my long day’s journey that just talk seemed about right
then. I will describe that talk in a minute but let me describe this cabin
homestead as we approached it on our one hundred, or one hundred and fifty,
yard walk from the diner. Now that I think about it though I really shouldn’t
have to describe it to you because you have all seen them, that is if you have
been on the back roads of America a little, especially out on those one-lane
country roads where working class people who don’t have much money go out to
the country to get away from the city and this is what they can afford. There
are about fifteen or twenty barely whitewashed cabins in a semi-circle, or
maybe a few degrees over. If they were not numbered or if you came to them
unknowingly on a dark, moonless night like tonight I guarantee that you would
be hard-pressed to tell your new-found home away from home from any other in
that arc.
The telltale old-fashioned,
green oil-based painted screened door tells you immediately that you are not at
the Ritz, or even its fifth cousin. As we enter amid the inevitable light-drawn
flies, or moths, or whatever those insects are that you need to swat away to
get in the door, or else you have to deal with them inside all night. Like I
say these places are built for the moment and so the amenities are on the
Spartan side.
As we walk inside, if I were
to hazard a guess, and I was a professor in some upscale home interior design
school, if someone presented this layout in a portfolio I would sent them, and
sent them quickly, to remedial work. Or to a job at Sears Roebuck. But we are
here and here the basic bed, bureau, kitchenette with a small table and a
couple of wooden chairs, small sleeper sofa, and tiny shower ¾ bathroom fill
the room. The only things personal about this place are Angelica’s alternate
uniform that matches the one that she has on hanging to one side, drying out
for her next bout with the ham-fisted crowd at the diner, and a small open
suitcase that has her clothes neatly packed in it. On the bureau her “making my
face” fixings and a few gee gads that everyone throws on the bureau when they
want to unload their pockets. Hey, I have placed my head down to sleep on
paper-strewn park benches and under paperless bridges and on up to
downy-pillowed, vast, roomy, and leafy suburban estates so a highway motel
cabin is hardly down at the low end of my sleeping quarters resume. This, my
friends, will be just fine for the night.
So we start the "just
talk" that Angelica promised. I don’t and, frankly, no one should expect
me to, remember most of what we talked about but here is my lingering
impression. Turnabout is fair play. I thought that I was going to get an
in-depth view of what “square” small-town Midwest girls dreamed of, or what
drove them from the Lynds’ Middletown (that’s Muncie, okay, the subject
of a famous study in sociology), to the wilds of Ohio. Instead I was the
interrogated. It seems that Angelica had been so “brain-washed” (her term)
about “hippies” or what the old town folks thought was hippiedom (basically a
variant of their mid-country fears of the “Bolsheviks” under every bed) that
she was crazy to “capture” (my term) one. And, as it turned out, in the course
of events, I was the one. And on top of that and here is a direct quote from
her, “You seemed nice, right from the time you sat down.” (Well, of course,
without question, without a doubt, it’s a given, and so on).
But here is the unexpected
part, or at least the somewhat unexpected part. Off the top of my head I would
not then, in the 1960s, bet my last dollar that a young woman from Muncie (town
used here for convenience only) would be coy (nice word, right?) on her first
“date.” Coyness here signifying her willingness to gather me to her bed at
about 3:00 AM as we both were trying to fight off the sleep that was descending
on us. But get this, and I will sign any notarized document necessary in
support of this, she asked, yes, asked me into her bed. Well, as I mentioned
above, she said I seemed nice, and there you have it. Of course, being “nice” I
couldn’t say no. Yes, the gentleman “hippie”, that’s me.
You know the boy meets girl
plot lines of most movies have it all messed up. Either they meet, give each
other lecherous stares (hell, not even winsome smiles) and proceed to tear each
other clothes off in an act of sexual frenzy then spent the rest of the movie
justifying their eternal love by that first edenic act. Or, and this is truer
of older films (and prudish modern comic book-based superhero flicks), the
“foreplay” lasts so long that by the time that they hit the downy billows you
go ho-hum and are more interested in the unfolding plot. Novels follow a lot of
the same paths except, mostly the sexual scenes are about a paragraph or so and
reflect the wisdom of the parties’ involved more than raw sexual energy.
Romance novels, a category that would seem to be made for sexual exploits,
using don’t get around to hitting the pillows until about page 323 and by then
all you care about is whether the sheets are pastel or designer prints.
Real life, real life first
encounter romances (read: sexual encounters) are more halting and, frankly,
timid. Except, of course, those phantom Herculean and nubile sex-crazed
teeny-boppers of urban legend that we have heard about. Yah, I have heard about
them too. But that’s about it, heard about them. Think about the awkwardness of
that first touch reflecting those ancient memories of being kissed back in
about sixth grade, or about those gone wrong affairs that have piled up in your
life’s memory bank, or that intense moment when both parties look downward in
trepidation at what may come ahead. Or, and here is where memory plays no trick,
that woman back home, that woman of one thousand frustrations that you needed
to get some distance from, and that set you on this blue-pink road, but whose
999 delights have now surfaced and clouded all thinking. I nevertheless plunge
recklessly onward.
For those pruriently-inclined
readers who now expect a touch by touch, feel by feel, clothes taking-off by
clothes taking-off, flesh against flesh description of our precious, sweet,
private, very private love-making look elsewhere. Wait a minute. Look
elsewhere, unless you have a written book (and/or movie rights) contract in
hand. In that case I will be more than happy to fill in the sweaty, steamy,
lurid, blood-pressure-rising details. I will make the earth under that old
cabin shake, and the rafters too. I will give details that would make the
Marquis de Sade blush, blush profusely. If you have no contract then let’s
leave it at this; something deep in that moonless Ohio night, that times out of
joint, moonless Ohio night, created a passion, or better, a moment of passion
that we both could have bet our last dollars on. Something that it seemed we
had both been waiting all our lives for, although we didn’t use those words.
Just a couple of sly, knowing smiles, and then sleep.
Suddenly, we are awaken with
a start. A still dark of night start and a hard rapping on the door, that damn,
fly-flecked, oil-based painted green door. And a voice, a female voice.
“Angelica, one of Penny’s kids is sick you’ll have to take her shift.” Even a
night of passion, a moonless Ohio sly-smiled night of passion, cannot fend off
the day’s realities, Angelica’s day realities. She says: “Yes, I’ll be there in
a little while,” almost automatically. But just as automatically she says to
me: “Don’t go out on the highway yet.”
Humble, barely whitewashed
cabin or exotic, leafy country estate if a woman jumps out of bed and orders me
to stay put who am I to disobey, at least until I see what my next move is. I
agree and turn over. A few hours later she returns and we mess up her bed
sheets again, and again. Then, after some Angelica sleep, and some kitchenette
supper she says to me, just as boldly as when she invited me to her bed, that
she wanted to go “on the road” with me.
My heart is racing for a
thousand reasons, one of them included the thought that our little romance
would lead to this although I didn't put it that way in my answer. More like:
“Ya, I guess I was kind of thinking, maybe, a little about that idea.” A couple
of days later, after she had worked some double-shifts and I did my bit doing
some off-hand dish washing for meals and wages we gathered up her stuff off the
bureau, place it in that orderly small suitcase, shut that damn, moth-crusted
oil-based painted green door and head for the trucks a couple of hundred yards
away and our ride out. Our ride out in search of the blue-pink great American
West night that I have not told her about, at least not in those exact words,
but that that she will find out about in her own good time and in her own way.
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